Joe’s Valley Firsts: Round 2

We returned to Joe’s Valley with the intent of climbing a few more new lines before the season ends at the hands of the weather. . . turns out the weather is giving free hand jobs outs this year in the form of blue bird 45 degree days.

Marcus Cline, Chad Parkinson, Blake Hendrix and I headed down for a day trip last week hoping to get the second ascent of Joe Meiner’s Fear Factor V8/9.  It is a beautiful independent line that Rocco Bocchicchio found years ago.  Chad Parkinson pointed it out to Joe a little while back and armed with a tiny pad, tiny Katie Thorup, and a tiny dog he sent it the next day creating one of the best problems in Joe’s Valley.  Yep, I done said it.  It’s the best of the best, like, if it were a fighter pilot it would be named Maverick, Goose, Iceman, Jester or Viper. . . you know, from that 80′s volleyball movie with that Kenny Loggins song about “playing with the boys” . . .

Anyway, check the photos and video.  As you can see this boulder is roadside, so no excuses.

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Fear Factor Parking

photo credit //  Scott Hall

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Fear Factor Boulder

photo credit //  Scott Hall

I also found a new boulder that is right below the Cabin Fever area (death scream boulder) and just to the left of the Pimper’s Paradise boulder (if looking at that boulder from the road).  There are many lines to be done on it but with the short days we were only able to complete one on an arete.  I ended up getting the first ascent of yet another creepily inspired Kurt Russell named problem.  Captain Ron V7 (see crappy video where you can’t really see) starts sitting on the arete with a good left hand edge and right hand small crimp.  Pull on and do a big move up and right to an undercling sidepull.  Nik Berry and Joe Meiners followed with the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively (meaning in that order, don’t confuse this with any notion that I respect either of those two). There is a problem that could start to the right and climb into Captain Ron as well as a tall face with dimples and dishes.  This boulder is solid.

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Captain Ron Parking

photo credit //  Scott Hall

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Captain Ron Boulder

photo credit //  Scott Hall

Oh, and I upgraded The Pork Chop Express from V9 to V10 after a handful of friends tried the problem and thought it was definitely harder than V9. I thought it was pretty damn hard but wanted to give it the conservative grade at first. Chase that tail my friends.

**** Mega Update ***** This just in. . . fresh video of Joe Meiner’s rad looking V12 Dark Matter up in Huntington Canyon. Check out the video! This problem is located on Highway 31 outside of Huntington at mile marker 34.

The future is bright in Joe’s Valley.  I found another cluster near the Battletoads area I’m deeming The Spartan’s Den that should yield some very quality easy and moderate problems.  Above this area is a project wall of solid black rock riddled with crimps.  This project looks difficult.

See you there.

This entry was posted in main article + photos + text + video.

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