the collective

climbing and bouldering and everything else

Ibex Addict

GW on The Bone Collector V11, Ibex, UT

“In our ever more crowded world, what the pioneers once despised has turned out to be, by virtue of the very fact that it was shunned and therefore lightly settled, our last refuge for quiet and contemplation.  So it is that deserts are refuges not by choice but by default, as if driven out of cathedrals we were forced to hold services on beds of nails.  But on the positive side, what are cathedrals.. Read More

Sendero Luminoso Partly Free

Nik trying not to punt on the 5.14a crux

Lisiniopril reduces hypertension and cardiac workload.  Aluminum Hydroxide neutralizes stomach acid. Salmeterol prevents something.  I stared at 160 drug flash cards for hours.  I kept Nostalgia Coffee Shop in business studying the absurd names for my pharmacology final.   Between studying, I dreamed of climbing.  I stared at Instagram pictures of thin alpine cracks.  I remembered an August trip to Mount Hooker four years ago.   Seven inches of snow and frigid temps kept.. Read More

Seek and You Shall Find

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The sun beats against the white lacquered walls of the Tuolumne Meadows store as the grease sizzling in the grill filters out the door. A breeze rattles the notes, flyers and pictures tacked to the cork board out front; climber partner wanted, gear for sale, looking for a ride, missing persons – it’s always the same year after year, week after week yet checking the board, scanning the names, looking for some bit.. Read More

New Damn Boulders

Scott Hall on Lonesome Animals

The spring season is winding down here in Utah, hinting at the hot summer to come, but yet again Joe’s Valley has provided new boulders. . . hell, a new area in fact.  We have dubbed this new area in left fork The Damn Boulders due to the fact that it has an irrigation dam crossing for access to the opposite side of the river.  The interactive map at the top of this.. Read More

A Fontainebleau winter wrapped up

November. I arrived in Font in just in time for the ideal perfect fall conditions which turned out to be the perfect timing for the arrival of what was to be the worst and darkest winter that has befallen northern Europe since the 1960’s. And so the story goes… I debated between waiting it out or going to the sun in Spain or even to Germany to get an early start to training.. Read More

The Dangers of Trying Hard

cactus

Bouldering is a sport of how hard you can try.  I learned this on a trip to Hueco Tanks to train for “real” rock climbing.  Yes, I said it bouldering is practice climbing, at least for me it is.  Being primarily a big wall climber, bouldering is a training tool to gain power.  Trying hard comes down to how much psych A.K.A. testosterone you can summon from those ostrich egg sized testis or.. Read More

Arco, Arco, county wicklow

With only two competitions left after Munich I was looking forward to some rest. My shoulders had taken a hard beating from the very start of this year and looked forward to some real rest as in, no climbing whatsoever. Bound for the world championship in paris, we made a short detour to Arco, Italy to take part in the rock masters international. Note… international, not invitational. One has to actually get invited to.. Read More

Hueco: A Quick Trip

PS3

Quick trips to a bouldering destination sure are funny, not funny like cat videos but funny like “that smells funny” . . . cause it’s not that funny.  It stinks like shit from the get go.  Knowing 14 hours to Hueco Tanks is a hell of a drive for 3 days of bouldering we do it anyway, convincing ourselves it is worth it and feeling holier than thou dedication as we sip our 8th coffee.. Read More

Southwest Videos

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Joe Meiners and Griffin Whiteside put together a great video of some of the bouldering around St. George, UT including the often shown Moe’s Valley but also a newer area that Isaac Caldiero has been developing called Dalton Wash near the town of Virgin, Utah. Southern Utah from Joe Meiners on Vimeo. Check this link for a map of where to turn on Dalton Wash road from Highway 9 just East of Virgin Utah.. Read More